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Saucy Lumps, and How to Avoid Them

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南希通过Twitter问:

Hi, Nancy,

当您创建那种变成块状的酱汁时,您将增厚粉末放入液体中。借助家庭厨师用来加厚的最常见粉末,您需要将它们提高到沸腾的温度,然后才能施加所有的增厚力,尽管它们仍然可以在较低温度下每周结合在一起。我们谈论的是淀粉,其中两个最常见的是玉米淀粉和面粉。大多数情况下,我们考虑粉酱会变成块状,但它也发生在玉米淀粉中。

淀粉变稠的方式是通过浸泡水并使用热量松开其分子结构。淀粉是一条长长的链中紧紧填充的糖。有了热量和多余的水的能量,这些长链从被卷曲的小球curl到当前沸腾的任何液体中散布。这会导致分子网形成口袋。如果一切顺利,一切都均匀分布,每个人都很高兴。

不幸的是,事情很容易去非常wrong, because starches don’t take long to spring into action. So if you take your boiling sauce liquid and just dump your starch into to, the outside of that starch is going to expand immediately, and all around the starch it will be extra thick, keeping the powder inside from ever touching the liquid. If you break the ball apart, the process repeats itself over and over again. It is disheartening.

答案是使淀粉在进入沸水之前彼此分离。有四种常见方法可以实现这一目标:

  1. 筛子。您将淀粉放入筛子中,并在搅拌时将其释放到沸腾的液体中。根据您的筛选设备,这可能需要3只手。
  2. 泥浆。将淀粉放入冷液体中,摇动或搅拌,直到所有分布均匀分布为止。这与诸如玉米淀粉之类的纯淀粉效果最好。
  3. Buerre manié. Knead your starch into butter first, then add to your liquid. This is not all that common, because with a pure starch you might as well use the slurrie, and with flour, you’ll want to use option 4.
  4. roux。面粉融化黄油的最受欢迎的方法,等待黄油中的水煮沸,加入面粉。(如果您能告诉我为什么首先将水煮沸的话,请点数。)煮约五分钟,直到面粉的风味消失,或者更多用于专门应用(尤其是Cajun应用程序)。普通的或金发的roux被轻轻烘烤,它们一直到深色深色。

将淀粉分子正确分离后,您可以将它们添加到沸腾的液体中,而不必担心会结块。

As for the pure starches vs. flour thing that I mentioned above, the thing with a pure starch and its long, long molecule is that it is far too complicated to be tasted by our tongues. So it doesn’t really matter how we get it into the sauce, as long as it goes in separated bits. With flour, though, there are a lot of things in that powder other than just untasteable starch. Raw flour tastes like uncooked sugar cookie dough without the butter, sugar, and salt. Is that not a good enough description? Well, pop into the pantry and taste a little flour. That flavor will pervade your sauce, and your sauce will suffer for it.

为了解决这个问题,我们煮面粉,最简单,最佳的方法是用黄油烹饪。好吧,我撒谎。尽管或由于其法国的起源,但用黄油制作roux是制造roux的最难方法之一,这正是因为黄油与脂肪混合在一起。只要其他任何东西都可以用酱汁味道良好,就可以节省一些麻烦并使用其他任何东西。菜籽油,橄榄油,培根油脂,鸭脂肪,schmaltz,suet等。将面粉混合,煮5分钟,或直到味道有点烤,然后加入酱汁。

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