There are a handful of iconic dishes that define a classic Jewish deli—chopped liver, matzo ball soup, a crisp kosher dill that breaks with an audible snap—but none quite as important as pastrami. “Pastrami is the pillar,” says Evan Bloom, who along with Leo Beckerman is cofounder of Wise Sons Jewish Delicatessen in San Francisco. “No one cares if the bread is lousy or the potato salad comes from a jar. They just want the pastrami.”

Get the recipe:自制五香熏牛肉

That’s why all of the pastrami sold at Wise Sons’s three locations—their sit-down space in the Mission District, their outpost in the city’s Contemporary Jewish Museum, and their regular spot at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market—is made in house (as are their excellent rye bread and potato salad, for the record). That may not sound like a big deal unless you know that some of the most famous delis in the country don’t make their own. But for Beckerman and Bloom, who have been cooking together since 2003 when as students they hosted barbecues at UC Berkeley’s Jewish student center, the idea for crafting the perfect pastrami came before they even decided to open a deli together. In fact, it was why they did.

毕业后，贝克曼（Beckerman）和布鲁姆（Bloom）采取了分开的方式。贝克曼（Beckerman）在洛杉矶从事公共卫生工作，布鲁姆（Bloom）从事湾区的建筑管理工作。尽管如此，两位朋友还是尽可能地一起做饭，并决定接受五香熏牛肉作为一个项目。布卢姆买了一个牛ket并灌布了，贝克曼将吸烟者装在他的汽车上，并在周末开车向北开车。五香熏牛肉很受欢迎，以至于将种子种植了在旧金山一起开设熟食店的种子。

贝克曼指出：“湾区有一个重要的犹太社区，但犹太文化不多。”“这里只有少数熟食。我们对自己所做的事情的热情没有准备。”为了使他们的五香熏牛，布鲁姆和贝克曼从大块头开始。他们将其浸泡在用糖，盐和腌制香料制成的盐水中大约一周。然后，他们用大量的黑色胡椒粉和香菜种子调味，然后在山核桃上轻轻抽烟。

According to Bloom, good pastrami should be fatty. It shouldn’t be stringy or chewy, but so tender that it falls apart in your mouth. It’s salty and sweet, and you should be able to taste the pepper, the coriander, and the smoke. “A lot of people taste our pastrami and don’t quite get it at first,” says Bloom. “They don’t realize that they’re tasting real smoke.”

当客户在Wise Sons下订购糕点三明治时，肉类已经完全煮熟，但可以手工切成薄片并蒸以订购。布卢姆说：“我们对熟食店应该有一个理想的观念。”“这包括一个热三明治，手工切成薄片，并在您可以看到的地方制造。”

For those who live in San Francisco, Wise Sons pastrami is easy to find—they even deliver. The good news for the rest of us is that Beckerman and Bloom were happy to share their recipe here. Will your pastrami taste exactly like theirs? Likely not. But even their pastrami doesn’t taste exactly the same every time they make it. “Ours is handmade,” they stress, “so there’s a lot of variation in the finished product.” The only thing that doesn’t change, however, is just how good it is.

帕斯特拉米的“明智”方式

On the Wise Sons deli menu, pastrami appears more than a dozen times. TheRoasted Cabbage Wedge Salad和Pastrami-Kimchi Reubenare two dishes that showcase it. Here are a few more of their customers’ favorites (try not to drool):

• 五香熏鸡蛋和鸡蛋柔软的炒鸡蛋与焦糖洋葱和小块的五香熏鸡肉混合在一起。当然，配黑麦吐司。
• 熟食店一个用30％的糕点制成的汉堡，配以70％的碎牛肉，上面撒上甜菜 - 毛的酱，芥末酱，生菜和红洋葱。在鸡蛋面包上服役。
• 糕点奶酪薯条烤薯条，上面放有切碎的五香熏牛肉，瑞士奶酪贝加梅尔，焦糖洋葱，俄罗斯调味料和咸菜。
• Semite Sandwich Crisppastrami, Swiss cheese, mustard, and a fried egg on rye, served with a pickle.