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周末储藏室

Five top chefs share their favorite ingredients for quick home cooking.

Fine Cooking Issue 120
Photos by Scott Phillips
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Lots of chefs don’t cook at home. I know this because I used to cook in restaurants, and on my one day off each week, the last thing I wanted to do was cook; I wanted someone else to cook for me. Fortunately, not everyone feels that way. There are also plenty of chefs who love making meals at home because it gives them the freedom to cook simple, straightforward dishes using the ingredients they love. The five creative chefs featured here all told me the same thing: the secret to quickly putting together a great meal at home is a well-stocked pantry. So what do these professionals always have on hand? Their favorite ingredients for boosting flavor run the gamut, from familiar (maple syrup) to exotic (yuzu kosho). Each one brings fantastic texture or flavor to otherwise tame fare and lasts for months in the cupboard, fridge, or freezer. Read on to find out more about the special ingredients these chefs love, and get their best recipes for using them, too. Thank goodness not all chefs are as lazy as I was.

Web extra:Ever wonder what the editors of Fine Cooking magazine always have on hand in their pantries? View a slideshow ofthe editors’ favorite pantry ingredients.

Weeknight pantry pick: Fresh breadcrumbs

厨师凯茜想
Known forRustic, ingredient-driven Italian fare
RestaurantsNostrana, and Oven and Shaker, both in Portland, Oregon

它们是什么Homemade fresh far breadcrumbs taste far better than store-bought, and they’re infinitely versatile. Plus, they couldn’t be easier to make: Just pulse crust-on cubes of one- or two-day-old artisan-style bread in a food processor to your desired consistency. They’ll keep in the freezer for several months.

Why Cathy loves them“令人惊讶的是,陈旧的面包多么可能 - 您可能会扔掉 - 可以轻松地变成一种美味的成分,为几乎所有菜肴增添了精美的角色和质感。”

More ways to use them
• Make Italian-style egg drop soup by toasting them and then beating them with eggs, nutmeg, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and lemon zest; whisk into boiling broth.
• Sauté them in olive oil with garlic and fresh herbs until crisp; sprinkle over cooked fish fillets or pork or chicken cutlets.
• Toss them with olive oil, lemon zest, minced garlic, and fresh parsley; lightly press onto peeled shrimp or fish fillets before broiling.
• Sauté them in brown butter with nutmeg, a pinch of sugar, and chopped walnuts for a topping for gnocchi.
• Toast them and then sprinkle over sautéed greens, like chard, spinach, or escarole.

Spaghetti with Fresh Breadcrumbs, Garlic, and Extra-Virgin Olive Oil

周末储藏室: Yuzu Kosho

厨师David Myers
Known for优雅的全球美食
RestaurantsComme Ça in Los Angeles and Las Vegas; Pizzeria Ortica in Costa Mesa, California; Sola and David Myers Café in Tokyo

这是什么This spicy-tart Japanese condiment is made from the zest of yuzu—an aromatic Asian citrus fruit—mixed with minced chiles and salt. There are two kinds: green and red. The spicier and more common green yuzu kosho is made from unripe green yuzu zest and green chiles, while the milder, brighter red version is made from ripe yellow yuzu zest and red chiles. You can find both varieties in Asian markets and online. Yuzu kosho will keep, refrigerated in an airtight container, for up to 3 months.

Why David loves it“Yuzu kosho’s tart citrus flavor and spicy chile bite make simple foods intensely flavorful. I put it on just about everything. To keep its flavor bright, I use it as a finishing ingredient or condiment rather than cooking with it.”

More ways to use it
• Add it to soups at the end of cooking.
• Spread it over cooked steaks, pork chops, or meaty fish fillets.
• Dab it on steamed or baked sweet potatoes or roasted root vegetables.
• Mix it with ponzu for a dipping sauce for dumplings or cold noodles, or mix with soy sauce for a dipping sauce for sushi or sashimi.
• Use it to add citrus and spice flavors to vinaigrettes.

柠檬式烤鸡与Yuzu Kosho

周末储藏室: Pure Maple Syrup

厨师Matthew Jennings
Known forFresh, seasonal New England cuisine
RestaurantFarmstead, Inc. in Providence, Rhode Island

这是什么Primarily produced in Quebec and New England, pure maple syrup is the boiled-down sap of sugar maple trees. Pancake syrups (with no real maple) and maple-flavored syrups (with a little bit of maple) are no comparison. True maple syrup has a complex, nuanced sweetness, and it works equally well in savory and sweet dishes. You can find it in supermarkets, and it will keep, refrigerated, for several months.

马特为什么喜欢它“Maple syrup is surprisingly good for you: it’s all natural, high in calcium, and has lots of vitamins and minerals. I use it instead of sugar to bring a more subtle sweetness and woodsy flavor to food.”

More ways to use it
• Add it to brines and marinades for chicken, turkey, and pork.
• Use it to sweeten vinaigrettes for all kinds of salads, including green, roasted vegetable, and fruit salads.
• Add it to cocktails, especially those with bourbon, instead of simple syrup.
•将其与少量水混合,冷冻并刮擦剃光枫冰。
• Add it to sauces for poultry, pork, and seafood.

Maple-Roasted Butternut Squash, Chard, and Sausage Flatbread

周末储藏室: Smoked Paprika

厨师Brian Lewis以季节性启发的现代美国美食而闻名

RestaurantElm in New Canaan, Connecticut

这是什么Smoked paprika, which is imported from Spain (where it’s known as pimentón de la Vera), is made from Capsicum annuum peppers that are smoked over oak and then ground in a stone mill. It can be sweet, bittersweet, or hot. Find it in well-stocked supermarkets, gourmet shops, and online. It’ll keep in a dark, cool place for up to 1 year.

Why Brian loves it“烟熏辣椒粉具有烟熏,甜和泥土味的美妙平衡,它与从蘑菇到全谷物,家禽,鱼类和羔羊的一切都很好。在夏天,我将其与我烤的所有东西一起使用,并在冬天将其用于注定肉鸡的食物。”

More ways to use it
• Sauté it in olive oil with minced garlic and panko for sprinkling over steamed artichokes or green beans.
• Infuse it into extra-virgin olive oil to use as a dipping sauce for grilled country bread.
• Mix it with flaky sea salt and sprinkle over fresh raw vegetables.
• Combine it with softened butter and garlic powder and rub under the skin of a whole chicken before roasting.
• Add it to sauces, especially rich ones likehollandaise.

Charmoula Lamb Chops with Curried Couscous

周末储藏室: White Balsamic Vinegar

厨师Peter Smith
Known forWhimsical contemporary cuisine
RestaurantPS 7’s in Washington, DC (now closed)

这是什么
Like its darker counterpart, white balsamic vinegar is made from the cooked must, or unfermented juice, of white Nebbiolo grapes. But while dark balsamic is caramelized at high temperatures and aged for at least 12 years in wooden barrels, white balsamic is cooked over low heat to prevent caramelization and aged in stainless-steel or oak barrels for a much shorter time. The result is less sweet and syrupy, with a cleaner finish. You can find it at well-stocked supermarkets. It’ll keep in a cool, dark place for several months.

彼得为什么喜欢它
“White balsamic is so versatile. It’s lightly sweet with a nice sour edge, so it goes with a wide range of everyday foods.”

More ways to use it
• Simmer it with minced shallots, fresh thyme, and a bit of sugar for a glaze for seafood, such as scallops or shrimp.
• Whisk into melted butter for a simple sauce for chicken, pork, or veal.
• Make a vinaigrette with balsamic vinegar, olive and canola oils, Dijon mustard, and minced shallot.
• Use it in cocktails instead of sour mix.
• Use it to macerate fresh fruit with sugar and cracked black pepper; then serve the fruit over toasted pound cake with ice cream.

White Balsamic Pork Chops with Roasted Potatoes and Peas

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