一盒意大利面是我在忙碌的工作日之夜所遇到的第一件事，当时我没有真正的晚餐计划，也不倾向于开车去市场上的特殊食材。亚搏手机版官方起初，我的即兴意大利面晚餐只不过是面食，撒上煮熟的蔬菜，橄榄油和一些磨碎的奶酪，但是多年来，我学习了使整个菜变得更深，更整合的口味的技术。

的基本方法是使三级跳远的酱éing a mix of aromatic vegetables, poultry, meat, or seafood in a large sauté pan while the pasta boils (in Italy, the rough, juicy, highly flavored mix of ingredients I’ve just described is called condimento). When the pasta is ready, you drain it and then add it to the sauté pan, where it cooks for just a minute or two more to absorb the flavors of the sauce, transforming it into a deliciously integrated tossed pasta.

For the tastiest sauté, first lay down a flavor base with a bit of fat

The first step for a sauté pan pasta is to choose a fat to establish a flavor base for the entire dish. Fat is a great flavor carrier, so this first step ensures that the flavors of whatever subsequent ingredients you choose will permeate the dish.

从少量橄榄油或黄油开始。Olive oil is usually my first choice, but sometimes I use butter for a sweeter, richer flavor—it’s especially good with slow-cooked vegetables, like the leeks inLinguine with Leeks, Prosciutto & Lemon. Butter burns easily, though, so in the recipes that need high-heat sautéing, I’ve called for half butter and half olive oil to prevent scorching.

For a deeper, almost smoky flavor base, brown some bacon, pancetta, or sausage.Once the meat is nicely browned, reserve it to add later on, and keep a few tablespoons of the rendered fat in the pan to help flavor the dish, along with the cooked-on brown bits. (I like to save fat scraps from prosciutto and melt them with the olive oil; they add a lovely aromatic hint to this type of pasta.) If you happen to have any duck fat on hand, try it with poultry, with cabbage or other hearty winter greens, or with mushrooms and sage or rosemary.

接下来，添加芳香学

一旦盘子调味锅，请至少添加洋葱家族的至少一个成员（切碎的洋葱，大蒜，葱，韭菜或葱），然后煮至嫩而香。这也是添加其他调味料的好时机在Gemelli with Cauliflower, Scallions & Green Olives. At this point, be sure to season the sauté with salt and pepper—do it liberally, keeping in mind that because the sauté is to be tossed with pasta, the flavors need to be good and full.

现在，选择主要口味

With this delicious base of sautéed aromatics, the dish can now go in almost any direction. Meat, poultry, vegetables, seafood: the possibilities are endless. Choose one or two principal flavors to give the final dish its character—avoid the kitchen-sink approach of adding a little bit of everything, or you’ll end up with a muddle. Some classic and delicious flavor pairs aresausage and a bitter green like Swiss chard,鸡肉和蘑菇, and cauliflower or broccoli with briny-salty flavors like green olives and anchovies.

在选择炒锅面食时，请考虑质地和烹饪时间。While more delicate, shorter-cooking vegetables such as mushrooms, chard, and leeks are great sautéed right along with the onions and aromatics, hardier, longer-cooking ones such as green beans, broccoli, potatoes, and cauliflower need parcooking before you add them to the sauté. Use the pasta water for this: just drop in the vegetables and scoop them out when just tender, leaving the water boiling and ready for the pasta. The benefit here is threefold: the vegetable-infused water will flavor the pasta as it boils, the vegetables in the final dish will be tender, and there will be flavored pasta water on hand with which to finish the dish.

Use dried pasta, not fresh

煮熟的面食在被酱汁扔掉后保持其形状和质地很重要。新鲜的意大利面太软，更容易崩溃。干意大利面是“口渴的”，更擅长吸收炒锅中的口味。

在面食水中加盐，但要握住油。无论您在完成的菜肴中加入多少调味料，无盐的意大利面都会平淡无奇。每三到四夸脱的沸腾的水（从来没有煮意大利面）倒入一汤匙的盐中；足以使水味道海水盐。尽管油会防止面条粘在一起，但也可以防止酱汁粘在意大利面上。跳过它。

煮意大利面直到al dente,because you’ll be letting it simmer for a minute or two to soak up the flavors of the pan sauce. Start checking the pasta a few minutes before the time suggested on the package, and drain it when it still has a good “bite” left to it. Shake the colander gently to get rid of some of the water but not all: the starchy water clinging to the noodles will help thicken the sauce.

仅添加足够的液体以达到糖果的稠度

In the end, the success of this technique relies on having enough flavorful liquid in the pan to ensure a consistency that’s saucy (but not soupy) so that the sauté blends with and clings to the pasta.

每半磅面食，加入1/2至1杯液体。您可以使用奶油，鸡肉或蔬菜汤，贝类或蔬菜的偷猎液体，甚至是一锅豆类的汤。同样，意大利面的沸水也很好。当使用意大利面水时，将钢包装下来并保留一杯左右的水，然后在排干面食之前。我从通常有泡沫涡流的锅中中央取它，表明有很多淀粉。虽然面食水不会像丰富的汤料一样给您带来那么多的风味，但它会延长矮胖的酱汁，并且水中的淀粉有助于酱汁紧贴面食。

I’ve given approximate amounts for liquids in the recipes; you’ll use more or less depending on how much the pan needs for a finished pasta that’s just saucy or brothy enough. Remember that if you’ve added too much liquid, you can always crank up the heat at the last minute to boil off the excess.

Sauté pan pastas are ripe for improvisation (see “Finishing touches,”below). These recipes are some of my favorites, but once you get the hang of the technique, have fun devising new combinations.

Finishing touches for your own pasta dishes

当您创建自己的面食菜肴时，有几种方法可以在将面食添加到炒炒面后给它们提供更多拉链，然后让它煮一两分钟：

Add piquancywith capers, a splash of vinegar, a squeeze of lemon, a dash of grappa, or a handful or chopped olives or reconstituted sun-dried tomatoes.

Add texture and substance带有酥脆的烤坚果或面包屑（在意大利称为穷人的帕玛森）。

添加丰富性和重量by stirring in a knob of sweet butter, a spoonful or two of crème fraîche, a bit of grated Parmesan or other hard cheese, or a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil.

添加新鲜颜色和风味with a small handful of chopped fresh parsley, basil, or chives.