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How-To

凉爽的意大利面

将冷却的意大利面包拌成新鲜食材和大胆的调味料,以获得最佳的亚搏手机版官方味道和质地

精心烹饪Issue 39
Photos: France Ruffenach
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我记得当各种形状和形式的意大利面沙拉刚刚成为美国的愤怒。大约在同一时间,我在意大利,问一个意大利朋友是否喜欢他们。她看着我好像我来自另一个星球。有趣的是,我以为我们会从意大利偷走了这个想法。来找出来,意大利面沙拉主要是美国发明,我认为是一种非常巧妙的发明。为什么不,尤其是在夏天的死亡期间,制作“凉爽”的意大利面菜而不是热盘?

Cool pastas, with their simplicity and focus on good, fresh ingredients, lend themselves to warm-weather dining. With the addition of fish or chicken, they can be substantial enough to serve as a meal in themselves. And versatile as they are, cool pastas can be made ahead and served later at room temperature. You do need to take some steps to avoid the sticky pitfalls of heavy, less delectable pasta “salads.” Dressing and seasoning the pasta carefully (with oil-based vinaigrettes and other vibrant sauces, rather than mayonnaise-based dressings), as well as choosing the best seasonal ingredients, will produce a light, refreshing cool pasta, rather than a typical bland and heavy pasta salad.

要将沙拉变成主菜,您可以添加烤虾或几条多汁的侧面牛排,与Romesco酱一起使用这种Orecchiette。

对于质地最佳的凉爽意大利面,请使用高质量的干面食

I look for pasta that’s made from 100-percent semolina or durum wheat. Most imported brands of dried pasta, and many domestic ones, are made of semolina or durum wheat. These pastas have a sturdier consistency than those made from softer wheats, and this sturdiness helps it maintain its chewy texture even after being cooked in boiling water, coated with a dressing, and chilled for any length of time.

Choose a pasta shape for your dish according to the sauce you’ll be using. If the sauce is on the thicker or chunkier side, a hefty rigatoni is the best choice. If your sauce is thinner and more fluid, fusilli or corkscrew-shaped pasta has lots of surface area to catch the sauce. Pasta shells, large or small, work best with shellfish, because they catch the bits of seafood in the dish. If I’m looking for texture, farfalle (butterfly-shaped or bow-tie pasta), with its puckered center, has the desired toothy quality. For an elegant cool pasta, I love the look of orzo with a finely diced confetti of fresh summer vegetables, dressed with a light lemony vinaigrette. Orecchiette, penne, tortellini, and elbows also work well in cool pastas because they’re easy to pick up in one forkful.

竭尽全力寻找夏季意大利面的最优质,最新鲜的食材亚搏手机版官方

After all, this is the time when flavors are at their peak. Seek out the tiniest, sweetest cherry tomatoes or the most colorful bell peppers from the farmers’ market or your garden. Use just-snipped parsley and mint from pots of herbs, or buy the peppiest-looking fresh herbs you can find. Hit the fish store for fresh mussels and clams. Take the opportunity to buy a really good feta cheese or your favorite olives. And use a splash of that truly delicious fruity extra-virgin olive oil

Every flavor counts in a cool pasta, so Joanne Weir uses her best olive oil.

For these dishes, it’s especially important not to overcook the pasta

您不希望您的意大利面在食用时变得live脚和毫无生气。对于初学者,一旦沸腾了意大利面的水(慷慨)。添加意大利面后,在前两到三分钟内偶尔会搅拌一下,以使面食不会粘在一起。然后只煮意大利面,直到al dente,这意味着,当您咬进去时,仍然应该有轻微的阻力。请记住,在排干后,您的意大利面将继续烹饪。排水后,立即用一汤匙或两汤匙橄榄油扔面食,以免冷却时粘在一起。

首先冷却意大利面,以免喝太多的敷料,使菜肴干燥和粘稠。
切成蔬菜以模仿面食的形状,以使色拉看起来不错且易于抛弃。
Let the pasta sit after mixing well so the flavors have time to blend.
最后添加口音成分,以免褪色或潮亚搏手机版官方湿。

对于将凉爽的意大利面,制作酱汁或醋汁,实际上味道太大了

一旦将酱汁或醋加入冰冷的意大利面中,意大利面的淀粉状和中性风味将使调味酱的味道降低。此外,食物的味道凉爽的味道比暖食物的味道稍微微妙。制作酱汁时,一次又一次地品尝酱汁,不要害怕稍微稍微掩盖酱汁或醋。这可能意味着比通常使用的盐,胡椒粉,香料,醋或柠檬汁多。并非所有凉爽的面食都需要穿衣服

并非所有的酷面食都需要穿着典型的醋

A sauce based on a vegetable purée will stay saucy and make a nice dressing as long as it has some acid in it. Try making a sauce that’s rich with tomatoes, like the Spanish romesco sauce in theorecchiette recipe或晒干的番茄香蒜酱。像莎莎·佛得角(Salsa Verde)这样的泥绿色草药也非常适合凉爽的意大利面。在里面grilled tuna recipe,我使用辣摩洛哥酱Charmoula的版本来调味面食。有时,我用“番茄水”打了个基本的醋汁(通过将番茄切成两半,用盒子刨丝器将果肉磨碎,并拧紧结果;几乎透明的液体令人惊讶地美味)。我还喜欢添加泥红色或黄辣椒或切碎的凤尾鱼。如果您将烤蔬菜添加到凉爽的意大利面中,请从锅中保存累积的果汁,然后将其添加到醋中。对于奶油调味料,不要使用蛋黄酱,而是用奶油或带有醋的奶油捣碎一点山羊奶酪或gorgonzola。有很多选择,具体取决于季节,您的市场和您的想象力。

Try preparing the different components of a cool pasta ahead of time

我喜欢煮意大利面,排干,用油扔掉,然后冷却。然后,当意大利面令人寒冷的时候,我做酱汁,无论是意味着要烤蔬菜,制作醋,煮贝类还是丁香蔬菜。然后,一两个小时在我准备好食用之前,我将所有成分扔在一起,让它坐一点。亚搏手机版官方(但是,某些亚搏手机版官方成分,例如新鲜的草药叶香港法尔法勒和烤鸡肉沙拉是最好的补充道,在最后一刻所以他们不wilt or fall apart.) I find that the dish improves when the pasta, dressing, and other components are allowed to sit for at least thirty minutes and up to two hours. I usually don’t mix cool pastas much more than a few hours before I want to serve them, though, as they’ll lose their freshness after several hours, and are definitely not as appealing after 24 hours.

If you’re in a rush, you can mix the pasta dish while the pasta is still slightly warm. In this case the warm pasta will tend to absorb more of the dressing. The pasta itself may be more flavorful, but the dish might be stickier or drier unless you increase the amount of sauce.

我喜欢将这些意大利面食品凉爽或靠近室温,但不冷,所以我将冰箱从冰箱中取出大约45分钟,然后再送到它。您可以将面食冷藏;请记住,在非常冷的盘子中,口味不会那么明显。如果菜需要一点醋或柠檬汁才能捡起味道,请务必在食用之前味道。

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