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simple: A Taste of Yotam Ottolenghi’s New Book

We sat down with one of our culinary heroes to get the inside scoop on his latest book—and we snagged a few of his new recipes, too.

December 2018/January 2019 Issue
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Yotam. Ottolenghi.

我们最喜欢的两个单词。显然,我们是这位以色列出生的伦敦厨师,餐馆老板和食谱作者的认真粉丝。这个人,他的食物和他的书都在这里(在这里进行精美的烹饪,几乎在地球上的其他地方)都无与伦比,无法激发人们的崇拜,而且并非没有理由。

Ottolenghi的食物经常被描述为“阳光明媚”,充满了和谐的矛盾。充满活力和大胆的同时熟悉和舒适。美丽,却是真实的。戏剧性但谦虚。嘈杂的和平。

Yotam OttolenghiOttolenghi的美食使那些让厨师成为一个骄傲而快乐的人的人感到高兴。地中海的影响力强调了他所做的一切,但是如今,他很有可能像石榴糖蜜和保存的柠檬一样伸手去拿mirin和miso。像所有冒险的厨师一样,他也喜欢新食材。亚搏手机版官方在他的餐馆和自己家中,菜单正在不断变化,实验正在进行中。

Ottolenghi’s life revolves around testing, tasting, and tweaking. Like us, he’s serious about making people happy through food, so we are thrilled to offer you this very special sample of a new book by a kindred spirit—and matchless talent. Here are highlights from our recent conversation with Ottolenghi about his books, his cooking philosophy, and life in general, along with a few favorite recipes from the new collection.

FC: Simple cooking. What does that mean, and how do the recipes in your new book exemplify that?

哟:简单对不同的人意味着不同的事物。对于某些人来说,简单的烹饪就是能够在20或30分钟内从头到尾做饭。但是,对于其他人来说,更多的是,如果您有朋友过来或想在回家后立即进食,那么能够在服务之前做得很好。

我的新书的标题很简单,是指食谱的一般感觉 - 我保证这些并不复杂 - 但单词本身中的字母分为六个类别:六种方式:我认为烹饪可以变得简单。

s是“短时间”食谱。

is all about the number of ingredients: “10 or less.”

mis for “make-ahead” recipes.

p代表“餐具室主导”,这意味着您可以在橱柜中查找并使用那里的东西。

lare “lazy” recipes, the ones you can put on the stove or in the oven and forget about

erecipes are “easier than you think,” things likeconfit tomatoes in a rice dish, which perhaps intimidates cooks by virtue of being a French term but actually is so effortless.

rice with confit tomatoes
Baked Rice with Confit Tomatoes

FC: As you point out, every cook has their own idea of what’s simple and what’s not. What does simple cooking mean to you?

哟:这取决于一周的场合和一天,但是对于在家日常烹饪的情况,我往往是S(“短暂”)厨师。因此,我喜欢在下班回家的路上停在杂货店,拿起一些蔬菜,然后从那里开始。我做饭时,我不会被孩子或朋友在厨房里扔掉。我只想能够在晚上准备一杯葡萄酒的时间。我的丈夫卡尔(Karl)往往比我更有条理,因此,当我们有朋友结束时,他是一个思考并在每个人到达之前的准备工作的人,当他有时间闲逛并为自己提供厨房时。但要灵活很重要。保持凉爽并保持简单完全取决于各种各样的事情:场合,季节,甚至外面的天气。如果倾盆大雨,没有人去任何地方,那么是时候从储藏室做饭,烘烤,炖,从或储存冰箱了。

鲑鱼与松子莎莎
鲑鱼与松子莎莎

FC: Any words of wisdom on simplicity for the Fine Cooking tribe?

哟:归根结底,我发现在厨房里保持简单的两种最佳方法是烹饪您想吃的东西并成为自己。不要试图成为厨房里的别人。我f you are super organized and like to be in control, then don’t think you can turn into a “spontaneous-cook-whilst-you-chat” kind of host just because you’ve seen someone else cooking like that and you like the vibe. And vice versa, if you’re happy chopping and stirring and tasting whilst chatting with friends, then don’t think this is any less special or “proper” than having it all ready and waiting when everyone comes. Be who you are. Enjoy your own food. And trust that if you think something tastes lovely and you’d love to eat it, then chances are everyone else will, too. Also, perhaps the key to it all: Shop well. It makes all the difference. If you start with good ingredients, you really are so far on your way to a delicious meal, especially when preparing great, simple food.

FC: Why are you excited about the book Simple? What unique goals did you hope to achieve here that you perhaps didn’t consider in your other titles?

哟:我简单的目的是生产一本Ottolenghi食谱,用于日常使用。Ottolenghi Food因与特殊场合或周末烹饪相关联而闻名。尽管我对这种协会感到非常满意 - 我喜欢我的食物是庆祝活动的代名词,但我想创建一本书,人们将在周一晚上独自一人的周一晚上伸手去拿。我认为我已经实现了这一点,我感到非常兴奋。书中的每个食谱都以一种或多种方式简单,而没有任何折衷的风味,惊喜和喜悦。

FC: What surprised you as you created the book?

YO: I thought imposing these various “simple” limitations on my recipes—the number of ingredients or the time spent cooking, for example—was going to feel restrictive, but actually, it was really liberating. That was the biggest surprise. Less, it turns out, really can be more.

足球俱乐部:厨师如何在不损害美味的情况下在餐点上取得成功?

YO: Sauces, stews, soups. These can be made two or three days ahead without any compromise to flavor. In fact, sauces and stews very often taste even better a day or two after making. Always hold back on the fresh herbs, though; add these at the last minute to preserve their freshness. Squeezes of lemon and lemon zest also should be held back until just before serving. And never underestimate the benefit of a final drizzle of olive oil. If a dish is uncooked—a chopped or leafy salad, for example— I always do as much chopping and slicing as I can beforehand
and just hold off on assembly until ready to serve.

FC:厨师可以限制成分的数量而不邀请平淡吗?亚搏手机版官方

哟:绝对!如果目的是避免平淡无奇,那么有一些真正的风味炸弹可以向各种菜肴注入大量炸弹:例如,保存完好的柠檬的切碎的皮肤是一种成分,可以添加到各种物品中,从酸奶酱到绿色沙拉再到面食,结果将与Bland相反。罗斯·哈里萨(Rose Harissa)(用于this pappardelle with black olives and capers) is another ingredient like this. There are many more: miso, tamarind, black olives, tahini. Any one of these really packs a punch.

pappardelle with Harissa
Pappardelle和Rose Harissa

FC: Briefly remind us of the importance of a well-stocked pantry. And also of the value of popping in at the market on the way home to buy just what you need or crave.

哟:这是简单烹饪的阴和阳。确保您的橱柜都备有橄榄油,意大利面,西红柿,凤尾鱼和金枪鱼,鹰嘴豆,芝麻酱,香料等,这真的很有用。然后,用一些新鲜的鱼或几个茄子武装,您在回家的路上抓住了这些茄子,您从来都不是一顿轻松,舒适和美味的饭菜。

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  • 用户avater
    danieltaylor1 |02/02/2019

    我想吃它!好吃

  • 用户avater
    KevinHuggins | 01/25/2019

    Good work!

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