当经典的烹饪技术变得不好时，事情就会变得丑陋：只要想到您在某些餐厅得到的那些水湿的蔬菜。这些可怜的蔬菜是过度烹饪和淡化的不幸的受害者，但这并不是那样。我认为您会惊讶地发现，用来烹饪这些蔬菜的技术可以产生完美的烹饪和美味的蔬菜。

The technique is two simple steps—one of which can be done up to a day ahead.首先，您会酥脆，新鲜，绿色的蔬菜，将它们煮成完美的质地；后来，您在炒锅中快速折腾，并加入一些脂肪和调味料。在沸腾和炒途中，您可以将蔬菜放在冰箱中一两个小时或一整夜。蔬菜已经煮熟到完美的质地，最后一刻的炒菜只需几分钟。您基本上是在加热和增加风味，这使得这种技术方便用于快速晚餐和娱乐。

To keep the vegetables firm and bright-tasting rather than soggy and bland, just remember a few important tips.Parboil your vegetables no more than you need to, stop the cooking by submerging them in an ice bath, and dry them very thoroughly before sautéing. Also, be sure to have your pan hot and all your ingredients ready for the sauté so that you can finish the vegetables without cooking them much further. That’s it. Easy. You may want to adjust the times I’ve suggested for parboiling, but you’ll find that most of these vegetables lose their overt toothiness after just a couple of minutes. The exception is green beans. Personally, I like to be able to bite through a green bean without a lot of resistance, so I parboil my beans for five minutes. They do, however, begin to lose their bright green color after about four minutes, so it’s up to you to decide how far to cook them.

These dishes have a fresh feel, and they let you be creative with seasonings.Another reason I like this technique is that it’s a change of pace from the hearty roasted and sautéed vegetables of late winter and early spring. Now that the weather’s getting warmer, I want something with a fresher, lighter feel. But I still want a lot of flavor, and I get it by adding bright seasonings like lemon zest, fresh ginger, and herbs like chives and mint—flavors that are appropriate additions to quickly cooked food, since they tend to lose their intensity with longer cooking.

This method is also a great way to introduce yourself to vegetables that you might not be familiar with. I’m crazy about fresh fava beans, and I find that parboiling them before further cooking is a must: It makes peeling their outer skin a breeze. You’ll love the slightly sweet, slightly bitter flavor of fresh favas, though you do have to pop and peel a lot of beans before you get much of a yield.

To appreciate the simplicity of this method and these flavors, I’ve used only one vegetable for each of the recipes. I’ve paired each vegetable with a different flavor combination: prosciutto and mint; lemon and cream; orange-mustard and pecans; ginger and sesame. While I think these particular flavors go well with the vegetables I’ve paired them with, you can easily substitute one vegetable for another. And you can design your own vegetable “medleys” by combining two or more vegetables. Peas and favas go well together. Sometimes I cut asparagus and green beans into small pieces to match the size of peas and favas. First I parboil all four separately, and then I sauté them all together with lemon and cream or brown butter and toasted nuts for a pretty and tasty side dish.

当天气变冷时，您当然可以将此技术应用于西兰花和布鲁塞尔芽菜等其他绿色蔬菜。(I don’t recommend this method for vegetables with a high water content like zucchini and other squash. It’s better to cook these completely in a sauté pan over very high heat.) Try broccoli with olive oil, garlic, and minced sundried tomatoes, or Brussels sprouts with brown butter, toasted walnuts, and a bit of lemon. You’ll come up with your own favorite combinations. Just keep the flavors bright and you can’t go wrong.

第一步：颜色和纹理的parboil

Second step: sauté for flavor