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为了刺痛和温柔,用酪乳烘烤

Why buttermilk makes better pancakes, biscuits, pound cakes, scones, and more

精心烹饪Issue 68
照片:Scott Phillips
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如果你想pancakesthat rise and rise and rise on the griddle, use buttermilk. If you wantbiscuits丰富而片状,与酪乳制成。为了磅蛋糕用潮湿的面包屑和浓郁的边缘选择酪乳。什么成分是什么成分,具有改善松饼,快速面包,scones, and more? You guessed it: Buttermilk!

酪乳归功于其作为其酸度的烘焙成分的成功。当然,它不像柠檬汁或醋那样酸,但是酪乳中存在的温和乳酸使其成为面包师的真正福音。略带酸性的面糊有助于通过分解长长的坚硬的面筋链,使烘焙食品保持湿润和嫩。它还可以防止樱桃和核桃在松饼中获得蓝色色调。酪乳的酸味为蛋糕和糕点增添了令人愉悦的细微味道。酸负责酪乳的浓稠稠度,这为您烘烤的任何东西增添了柔软,丰富,乳脂状的质量。

Although you probably don’t think of it in this way, buttermilk contributes to the leavening of many baked goods. In conjunction with baking soda, buttermilk produces carbon dioxide gas, which is why a stack of pancakes made with buttermilk can tower over those made with milk. In fact, before baking powder was invented, buttermilk was the home cook’s trusty baking companion. Baking soda was the only game in town, and it needed an acidic ingredient to help activate it and balance its flavor. Buttermilk came to the rescue.

And it’s still my savior in the kitchen. Having a quart of buttermilk in the fridge allows me to whip together a quick batch of scones whenever the mood strikes. I know that one complaint with this ingredient is having a half-empty carton leftover, but I never have that problem as there are plenty of ways to use it beyond baking. In my family, we even drink it, blended with fresh fruit and sugar, for a quick, tangy smoothie.

酪乳到底是什么?

最初,脱脂乳是r的乳白色液体emained after churning cream into butter. But the product that we use today is made in a different way, more akin to yogurt. Skim milk or low-fat milk is heated with active cultures (in other words, good bacteria), and these cultures convert some of the sugar in the milk (the lactose) into lactic acid. Under acidic conditions, milk proteins are not as soluble and they precipitate out, causing what’s known as clabbering—an old-fashioned term for the thickening of milk. It’s the lactic acid that causes both tartness and thickness, which are classic characteristics of buttermilk.

在捏中,尝试干酪乳……或制作人造酪乳

酪乳粉是烘烤的一种选择。与今天的液体酪乳不同,干燥的形式实际上是由搅拌黄油后剩下的液体制成的。将这种液体培养并蒸发水,留下干粉末。许多超级市场载有Saco在烘焙区制造的产品。

粉状酪乳无法重构为液体酪乳,但对烘烤的作用确实很好。将粉末加入干成分,然后将水加入湿成分。亚搏手机版官方(包装提供了精确的比例。)当涉及烘焙食品的质地和风味时,我会给液体酪乳以粉末状态优势,但是干产品确实在面包店的食品储藏室中占有一席之地。一个很大的优势是,只要开放后就冷藏了很长时间(到几年)。

快速酪乳替代品的一种简单方法是添加1汤匙。白醋或柠檬汁到1杯全牛奶,静置10分钟。这种“酸奶”可以在大多数烘焙食品中捏酪乳。(Don’t try using truly soured milk, which is milk that has spoiled and has an unpleasant flavor.) It will provide the acid for leavening and tenderizing, though the flavor won’t be as tangy or as pleasing as you get with regular buttermilk.

Yogurt also works: I’ve used plain low-fat or whole-milk yogurt in recipes when I’ve come up short on buttermilk, and it works fine.

How long does buttermilk last?

由于其酸度抑制细菌生长,因此酪乳具有良好的持久力。新鲜的纸箱将持续三四个星期。您会知道,如果质地颗粒状并且闻起来散发出来,那就变坏了。使用之前,请务必摇动纸箱,因为牛奶固体倾向于沉降。如果您有额外的酪乳,但不打算在那段时间使用它,则可以将其冻结长达六个月。请记住,它在解冻时会分开,即使在混合后,质地也不会相同。

Beyond baking

I use buttermilk so often that it has a permanent spot on my weekly shopping list. But if you’re looking for easy ways to use up the quart, here are a few:

Ranch dressing:用2/3杯蛋黄酱,2茶匙Dijon Mustard搅拌1杯酪乳,1茶匙。切碎的大蒜和1汤匙。每一个新鲜的莳萝,切碎的新鲜欧芹和磨碎的洋葱。调味,用盐和胡椒粉调味。

土豆泥:用酪乳代替常规牛奶。

Vegetable soups:Swirl a little buttermilk into a bowl of puréed soup for a bit of tang.

Fried chicken:Soak chicken pieces in buttermilk before coating with breadcrumbs and frying. The acidity in buttermilk makes the meat extra tender—and tangy, too.

Fruit desserts:Instead of topping a dish of peaches or berries with crème fraîche or whipped cream, try using a little buttermilk mixed with sugar as a low-fat alternative.

Comments

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Comments

  • Lisa0 | 10/18/2019

    Excellent article! Adds new value to buttermilk! Thank you!

  • elliepickering | 05/30/2019

    很棒的文章!

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