You find mushroom soup in Mexico year-round, but especially during the summer rainy season in the central part of the country, when foragers go out to the hills before dawn to gather all sorts of exotic varieties and bring them, still glistening with the morning dew, to local markets. For this soup, you can use wild mushrooms such as chanterelles, trumpets, shiitakes, or oysters (a mix is nice) or cultivated ones such as white buttons, cremini, or baby bellas. Whether made with wild or cultivated varieties, Mexican mushroom soup has a rustic mountain quality. Dried chiles are usually part of the equation; the most common are guajillos, used here, or anchos or chiles de árbol, which can be substituted. All will give the broth a red hue and a smoky taste, but anchos will yield a more bittersweet, chocolaty flavor, and chiles de árbol will make it smokier and the heat a bit feistier.
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