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How-To

A Trio of Silky Custards

Learn the secrets to making satiny-smooth custard, and then create three different desserts: crème caramel, crème brûlée, and pot de crème

Fine Cooking Issue 25
Photos: Ben Fink
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Crème brûlée is to desserts as Tom Cruise is to movie stars: with Cruise as your leading man, you’re guaranteed a hit. Whenever I’d put crème brûlée on the menu at the restaurant where I worked, it would outsell all the other desserts by such a huge margin that I’d have to start work early to keep up with the demand. Learning how to make the creamy classic seems to be just as popular—I once taught a pastry class and noticed two burly uniformed men among the mainly female audience. They turned out to be firemen who had come to turn off the smoke detectors before my class started; when they learned I was doing crème brûlée, they stayed for the class.

Crème brûlée (pronounced krehm broo-lay) belongs to the family of custards that includes the classic crème caramel (krehm kair-ah-mehl) and the lesser known but equally luxurious pot de crème (poh duh krehm). From a simple list of ingredients—eggs, sugar, milk, cream, and a flavoring such as vanilla—comes this array of suave, silky baked custards.

他们都如何关系?

有一天,经过数百个蛋ust,它打了我:所有这些甜点都是一样的。奶油焦糖是一种烤蛋奶,用焦糖衬里的小模子煮熟;奶油布鲁利(CrèmeBrûlée)是一种烤蛋ust,上面放着一块透明的焦糖糖层。PotdeCrème是烤蛋ust。

相同的技术,但结果不同。You’ll notice that all three custards share the same mixing and baking techniques. Look closer, however, and you find that the proportions for each custard vary and that, while the variations seem small, they actually correspond to a different result.

奶油布鲁利是三个中最富有的。所有的浓奶油和蛋黄都煮熟了浓郁而浓密的浓汤 - 与玻璃状脆性焦糖糖的形成鲜明对比。接下来是PotdeCrème。奶油和牛奶等等的奶油和大量的蛋黄,它是柔软而柔软的,纯净的蛋ust可以从杯子里勺子勺子,并没有装饰。最后,焦糖焦糖是最轻的,还有全鸡蛋以及蛋黄,牛奶和奶油。它是要从烘烤的小模子中倒出的,这样它的黄褐色焦糖酱就可以在周围泳池池。蛋清使蛋ust足够坚固,可以自己站起来。

烘烤最丝绸蛋奶的技巧

As you can see from the recipes, custards aren’t complicated desserts, but in order to make them what they should be—suave in texture, mellow and rich in flavor—you need to pay close attention to details.

许多食谱指示您烫牛奶和奶油;这是未经巴氏菌牛奶的日子的保留。但是,烫伤确实会缩短烹饪时间,因为牛奶已经很热。它还可以确保糖在烘烤前完全溶解在蛋ust底座中,因此我建议您此步骤。如果您要制作风味的蛋ust,请在这一点上添加任何其他成分,以便它们可以在热奶油中浸泡以提取其全部风味。亚搏手机版官方

不要将糖直接倒在鸡蛋上,然后坐下;这使蛋黄“燃烧”成坚硬的小块,从而从您的奶油蛋ust中造成了损害。相反,在搅拌时加糖;这样,糖将逐渐掺入鸡蛋中。

One of the most important techniques in baking is called tempering, which is the slow addition of a hot liquid to cold eggs. Tempering gradually brings the temperature of the two mixtures together and keeps you from making scrambled eggs, which is what you get when a scalding hot liquid shocks an egg. To temper, add a large spoonful of the hot cream to the egg-sugar mixture, whisking all the while. Add another spoonful, and then another, and continue until all the cream is mixed in.

总是在水浴中煮蛋ust。水浴使蛋ust避开刺激性,直接烤箱热并节省烹饪。烤箱比325°F更热。对于蛋ust,热量越温和,越好。

Scalding the cream isn’t critical but it is handy. Scalding (a holdover from the days before pasteurization) speeds total cooking time and helps dissolve the sugar. When you see small bubbles at the sides of the pan, the cream is hot enough.

The wobble test says it’s done

烤箱日常温度变化;有时,您的蛋ust基地比平时更热或更凉。也许您的小模子有较薄或较厚的墙壁。我总是安全地播放它,以防万一,请尽早检查蛋ust。此外,蛋ust在从烤箱中取出后继续做饭并设置,这是另一个理由在完成之前将它们取出的原因。

To test for doneness, wiggle a ramekin around. It should be wobbly like Jell-O, but not soupy. When the custard in the ramekin moves as one mass rather than as a cup of liquid cream, it’s ready. If a knife inserted in the center comes out clean, then the custard is probably overcooked. If this happens, remove the ramekins immediately from the water bath and plunge them into ice water to bring the temperature down and stop the cooking. Note that crème caramel will usually cook much faster than the other custards because of the egg whites in the base, which are full of proteins that coagulate at a lower temperature.

A smooth custard needs gentle heat. Start with a protective water bath and a sheet of foil, and cook the custards in a low oven—325°F is tops.

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