While traveling through Italy and researching handmade dumpling-style pasta for my bookPasta By Hand,我开始了解到,gnocchi(Nyoh-kee)的世界比我以前想象的要大得多。我很熟悉马铃薯gnocchi,这种gnocchi经常被描述为“轻便的空气”,但很快就得知gnocchi也是用意大利乳清干酪(有时被称为gnudi)制成的,并以类似于玉米一次性的方式(gnocchi alla romana)制成了semolina。它们可以从陈旧的面包甚至pâtunchoux中塑造,这就是法国人制作他们的gnocchi parisienne的方式。
What really surprised (and delighted) me was how much the flavors—and even the colors—can vary. To demonstrate some of the myriad ways to flavor gnocchi, I’m focusing here on potato-based gnocchi to keep the basic process more or less the same. Hailing from northern Italy, potato gnocchi are made by mixing cooked potatoes with flour and sometimes egg to form a thick dough. The dough gets rolled into ropes, then cut into individual pieces. To serve, it’s boiled like pasta. The variations come from what I add to the dough, whether a different kind of flour that changes the look and texture of the gnocchi, a vegetable purée that adds deep color and earthy flavor, or a soft cheese that makes it feel light.
对于普通的马铃薯gnocchi而言,超光的稠度是最大的卖点,而且在制作精良的情况下,每个咬合都会感到空灵。我的Potato and Ricotta Gnocchi那是通风而柔软的,但是我在意大利采样各种gnocchi时也学到了一件事栗子gnocchi, are actually supposed to be a bit more dense.
尽管该过程看起来很吓人,但一旦您掌握了这些小饺子,这些小饺子就会变得有趣。如果您曾经喜欢塑造Play-doh,那么制作gnocchi就在您的小巷上。而且,自己制作的回报 - 可爱的口感以及在这里量身定制风味和颜色的能力 - 都是巨大的。如果给出每个饺子脊的想法让您停下来,请知道练习变得更加容易。此外,让您的gnocchi山脊不含山脊是完全可以的。山脊配以较粗大的酱汁,可以帮助您捕获美味的碎片,但是在搭配黄油或奶油酱时,它们并不是必需的。
如何塑造gnocchi:逐步
说到酱汁,不要简单地将其放在gnoc舞中。取而代之的是,用温暖的酱汁轻轻折腾。这样,每个饺子都有机会吸收一些调味料的味道,每个饺子都涂有很好的涂层。像意大利面一样,可以搭配各种调味料样式,从肉ragù到marinara再到简单融化的黄油。您唯一遇到的麻烦是确定要制作哪种gnocchi的味道。
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