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在两个夏季甜点中炫耀李子

如何充分利用夏季的李子?我们向两名糕点厨师询问了他们的灵感

精心烹饪Issue 46
照片,除了注明:艾米·阿尔伯特(Amy Albert)
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当夏天如火如荼时,李子是农贸市场和农产品摊位上最诱人的景点之一。从火红到红宝石再到深紫色,芬芳,多汁和成熟……如何抵抗?您买了一个篮子,它们非常适合直接吃东西,但是您还能用所有这些李子做什么?

We invited two of our favorite pastry chefs—Karen Barker from木兰烤架在北卡罗来纳州达勒姆和克劳迪娅·弗莱明Gramercy Tavern在纽约市 - 尝试我们的“市场篮子挑战”,并要求他们使用有限数量的成分并遵循右边的游戏规则即兴即兴创作李子甜点。亚搏手机版官方这是每个厨师提出的,以及她的灵感背后的技术和推理。

斯科特·菲利普斯(Scott Phillips)

Rules of the game

凯伦和克劳迪娅开始任何类型的李子they wanted, in any amount. They were allowed to use unlimited ingredients from a basic bakers’ pantry and to choose up to three wildcard ingredients.

市场成分:Fresh plums (any type, any amount).

Basic baker’s pantry:Baking powder, baking soda, butter, canola oil, eggs, flour (all-purpose, cake, and pastry), heavy cream, lemon juice, milk, olive oil, pepper, salt, sugar (white, brown, and confectioners’), vanilla extract, water.

Wildcards:Any condiment, flavoring, fruit, herb, nut, spice, or starch.

凯伦·巴克(Karen Barker)颠倒了李子

当我在市场上看到李子时,我想到了诸如颠倒蛋糕之类的老式甜点,这是李子的理想展示,原因有几个。李子果汁被蛋糕吸收,它们使红糖润湿了,以使其浇头,这是正确的粘性程度。我喜欢甜蛋糕和酸果的对比,以及鲜艳的皮肤和淡蛋糕的对比。因为我喜欢单个甜点的外观,所以我决定用单个单杯小动物烤蛋糕,而不是烤一块大蛋糕。

对于这个特殊的食谱梅子上下蛋糕,,,,I try to find smaller plums if possible, so I can get slices that are small enough to arrange in a circle in the bottom of the ramekins. Red Casselmans or Santa Rosas give you distinct color contrast (I leave their red skins on), but any ripe, firm plum will do. If you can’t find small plums, just use fewer slices.

Rather than a traditional caramel, I use a brown sugar and butter mixture to line the ramekins, which creates the topping for the upside-down cake. Brown sugar’s toasty notes are especially good against a plum’s tartness. To give the cake a bit of tang as well as a tender crumb, I soured regular milk with some lemon juice (buttermilk is traditionally used, but I don’t always keep it on hand).

我选择肉桂和橙皮作为我的通配符成分,因为它们不加油而强调李子的味道。亚搏手机版官方我选择不使用第三个通配符,因为蛋糕不需要它,但是您总是可以将一些带有大玛尼尔的鲜奶油加入到上面。

这些颠倒的蛋糕可以提前几个小时烘烤,并在食用前在350°F进行大约两分钟。这使得将蛋糕从小模子中脱颖而出,这使他们恢复了柔软的质地。因为李子真的很多汁,所以我建议烘烤并在有框烤盘上重新加热蛋糕,以防果汁泡泡。

Upside-down cakes take full advantage of a plum’s juiciness. Juices help make a gooey topping that the cake in turn sponges up; vanilla ice cream is the perfect complement.

Claudia Fleming bakes a crusty spiced cobbler

Plums are a late-summer fruit with a richness that begs for full, spicy seasoning. When I’m at the farmers’ market and feel the air start to change in that late-summer way, warm, rich flavors start to tempt me again.

我为我的市场成分选择了意大利李子:我喜欢烹饪的意大利李子,因为它们通常不会像多汁的那样散开(尽管荷兰李子更美味,可以用手吃饭)。

A plum’s sweet, tart flavor is bolder than that of berries or peaches, so I chose cardamom and cinnamon as two of my wildcard ingredients to season my cobbler. Their warmth matches the plums’ rich flavor—and rich color. I keep the skins on the plums, rather than peeling them, which creates an irresistible purply-red jam that bubbles around the topping as the cobbler cooks.

And speaking of those juices, managing them is a main concern when you’re working with any type of plum. Because the fruit (if it’s truly ripe) contains so much water, a pie just isn’t a good idea: the crust will get wet and soggy, and you’ll miss the delicious textural contrast of crisp crust and soft, cooked fruit that’s the whole point of a pie.

补鞋匠是多汁的李子的好目的地:您可以拥有外壳,而且不会湿润。饼干顶吸收果汁,但您仍然会得到所有黄油的片状。我的第三个通配符成分Turbinado Sugar在饼干顶增添了可爱的闪光(它是轻琥珀色,比常规的更粗糙),但常规糖也可以。

I like to serve thisItalian Plum Cobbler搭配肉桂冰淇淋,但将其加上Crème fraîche或香草冰淇淋一样好。

补鞋匠也出色地展示了李子,开开了深紫色的果汁和上衣,既又好又crust。

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