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如何

做牛奶巧克力和烤棉花糖冰淇淋三明治

This scrumptious dessert takes its inspiration from a childhood favorite—campfire s’mores

Fine Cooking Issue 22
斯蒂芬·杜菲(Stephen Durfee)is the pastry chef at The French Laundry in Yountville, California. Photos: Ben Fink
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仅仅片刻,闭上眼睛,想象一个夏天的夜晚,坐在篝火旁,讲故事,烤棉花糖和吃S’mores。还记得那些热,粘糊糊的,格雷厄姆 - 饼干和巧克力棒夏季甜点吗?好吧,你可以睁开眼睛。有人带餐巾吗?

我承认对S’mores终身奉献,因此,作为餐馆糕点厨师,我尝试了多种方法将这个夏季营地的甜点带入餐厅。今年,我将另一个童年的甜心(冰淇淋三明治)与S’mores合并,以制作牛奶巧克力冰淇淋甜点与自制棉花糖和Graham饼干,这是一种篝火晚会 - 阿拉斯加 - 阿拉斯加的东西。这是一个冰淇淋三明治,在后院烧烤或精美饭厅中同样非常棒。

Start a day or two before serving

While this dessert isn’t difficult to make, it does require time to make the different components: ice cream, graham crackers, and marshmallow topping. The good news is that you can make the components and assemble most of the sandwich ahead of time. When you’re ready to serve, all you have to do is broil the sandwiches. Here’s a plan:

在您想提供三明治之前两天,煮冰淇淋的蛋奶。To develop the flavor, let the custard sit in the refrigerator for several hours or, ideally, overnight, and then freeze it in your machine the next day.

使Graham饼干提前一天,而冰淇淋冻结。如果您想在此之前制作,饼干将在密封的容器中保持几天。

在您提供三明治的那一天,使棉花糖顶起来。在切割部分之前,您需要30分钟到一个小时才能将冰箱的顶部加油。您还可以提前几个小时将棉花糖制成和管道。三明治在制作的那一天会味道最佳,但剩菜将在冰箱中持续几天。将Graham饼干分开,以免潮湿。

乞讨或借用冰淇淋制造商

You won’t need a lot of fancy equipment to make this dessert; just make sure you have an electric mixer and an ice-cream maker. Any hand-crank or electric icecream maker with at least a 1-quart capacity will do. If you don’t have an icecream maker, borrow one from a friend.

我确实建议您握住Angel Food Cake Cutter(这看起来像一个大型,危险的梳子),这将使您的Graham Crackers具有专业的外观。(这些切割机可用Cooking.com。)您还需要一个12×16英寸的烤盘,用于Graham饼干。在餐厅,我使用了铝制半片锅的背面,但是在厨房商店中发现的大型空气绝缘烤盘(价格为15至20美元)都可以很好地工作。

遵循以下技巧,以获取光滑的冰淇淋和酥脆的饼干

The recipes for the ice cream, graham crackers, and marshmallow topping aren’t difficult, but here are a few tips to help you get the best results. The first thing you’ll make is the custard for the ice cream.

Buy the best chocolate for homemade ice cream.我还添加了可可粉,因为我喜欢它借给甜牛奶巧克力的苦边。

将可可粉掺入冷牛奶和奶油中。可可粉溶解在冷液体中,然后有机会用蛋ust煮一点,这使它的苦味吸收了苦味。

Use a little elbow grease when whisking the egg yolks and sugar for the custard.花时间(三到四分钟)真正搅拌鸡蛋和糖。当鸡蛋变稠,颜色变浅并从“丝带”中掉下来时,您会知道它具有正确的一致性。

首先用少量的热液使鸡蛋结合牛奶和鸡蛋混合物。Finish cooking the custard over low heat, stirring frequently, and take it off the heat when it’s just thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.

将Graham-cracker面团混合直至混合。有人曾经问过我如何制作如此美味的谷物饼干:“你是从格雷厄姆 - 饼干碎屑开始的吗?”“是的,胶水,”我回答。实际上,这要比这要容易得多。Graham-cracker面团是一个简单的饼干面糊。为了制作带有全麦味道的嫩饼干,我使用一部分全麦糕点粉(可在健康食品商店中使用),然后加入蜂蜜,这有助于保持饼干柔软并提高其保持质量。我也要小心不要覆盖面团,我用手将其压在一起。

将面团非常薄。您必须继续捡起面团的碎片并修补它们以填充矩形。如果羊皮纸在滚动时皱纹很多,请在纸和面团之间撒上很少的面粉。但是不要发疯:添加太多面粉会使饼干变硬。

结合明胶和煮熟的蛋白甜饼制成一种棉花糖绒毛。I have to be honest and tell you that we’re not technically making marshmallow. A proper marshmallow is rather stiff and difficult to eat with a fork; on the other hand, meringue— the fluffy finish on a baked Alaska— lacks any real marshmallow texture at all. As a compromise, you’ll make a sort of hybrid, something along the lines of Marshmallow Fluff. I know what you’re thinking, but trust me on this one. You’ll need a clean candy thermometer and a very clean mixing bowl and whisk to make the topping. Any oily residue in the bowl or on the whisk could prevent the egg whites from whipping to their full capacity.

完成肉鸡下的三明治

When you’re ready to serve your ice cream sandwiches, you can brown the tops and warm the marshmallow under a hot broiler. You’ll be surprised at how warm and gooey the marshmallow can get without melting the ice cream. Or, if you happen to own a blowtorch—many restaurant pastry chefs use these with abandon—you can brown the topping with that, though the blowtorch browns so quickly that the marshmallow doesn’t have time to warm up much.

I like to serve the sandwich on a big plate with a second graham cracker and sometimes a spoonful of chocolate sauce. To really impress your friends and recreate campfire memories right at the dinner table, leave room on the plate for one other thing: a little pile of cinnamon sticks broken into small pieces. Using your blowtorch or a long match, set the cinnamon-stick “logs” on fire. They’ll flare up for a minute or two, subside into cozy embers, and give off a little cinnamon-scented smoke, all the while looking convincingly like a miniature campfire.

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