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如何

咸鸡胸肉

在皮肤下放一点馅料,以增强风味并防止肉干燥

精心烹饪Issue 45
照片:史蒂夫·亨特(Steve Hunter)
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让我开始说我从不喜欢鸡胸肉。在我看来,他们的主要美德(Quick-Cooking,Wimper)的否定性与积极因素一样多。快速烹饪通常转化为干燥,温和的风味只是说平淡的好方法。当我要挑选我想煮的鸡肉的一部分取决于我时,我通常会选择大腿。

I am outnumbered, however, by the other two members of my household, who both love chicken breasts. And I have to admit that I’m now glad of that fact because I recently developed a way to cook chicken breasts that I truly love, too—it’s easy and quick, but the results are moist and very flavorful.

我的方法是制作超级填充物并将其滑动在皮肤下。然后,我将鸡肉涂在两侧,然后在热烤箱中煮熟。整个过程比炒或烤纯鸡胸肉大约需要十分钟的时间,但是结果是美味的整体。

A good stuffing will baste as it adds flavor

The stuffing can be made of a variety of ingredients, as long as they’re quite assertive and can be mashed into a rough paste, which is the consistency you need in order to slide the stuffing under the skin. Too wet and you’ll have a sloppy mess; too dry and the stuffing will crumble as you try to insert it.

All my stuffings contain some cheese, which helps bind the ingredients, as well as a touch of butter, which not only binds but also bastes the chicken as it cooks. In fact, most of the butter ends up melting out of the stuffing into the pan by the end of cooking, but it does a good job of adding flavor and moisture along the way.

I’ve developed three different stuffings, each with a different feeling,all very quick to make. The first combination has a slightly Italian feel to it, with prosciutto, Parmesan, sun-dried tomatoes, and sage. The second is just grated Parmesan, chopped herbs, fresh breadcrumbs, and a touch of grainy mustard to give it some punch. I’ve got another that can only be described as “zesty” (as much as I hate that word): roasted red pepper (from a jar is fine), feta, black olives, mint, and a touch of orange zest—very refreshing.

您可以将这些馅料中的任何一个或三批批量制成,用小的拉链袋将它们冷冻,然后在最后一分钟将它们拉出,以便快速晚餐 - 少量的填充物将在几分钟内浸泡在几分钟之内融化袋子里的袋子。

The only not completely easy thing about these recipes is buying boneless chicken breasts with the skin still on. In my market, I can get skinless, boneless or skin-on, bone-in. I tried making these dishes with bone-in chicken, but the boniness makes it hard to sauté evenly and doesn’t look particularly nice on the plate.

在大多数杂货店中,您可以要求屠夫为您拿出骨头。如果这是不可能的(或者您喜欢像我一样学习骨头),请购买骨头内的乳房,并花几分钟来学习自己剪掉骨头。完成几次之后,您会发现它很容易。

Be vigilant about preserving the skin.挑选乳房仍然完好无损,没有明显的孔或眼泪,如果您将肉骨骨头乳房保持在乳房中,请务必要求他或她对皮肤保持温和。通常,在包装中,皮肤看起来有些皱纹或皱纹,但通常您可以将其弄平到位而不会出现问题。

The skin is attached to the breast by a very thin, transparent—but remarkably strong—membrane. When you make the pocket for the stuffing, you want to try to preserve this membrane; otherwise, you’ll end up with a flap of skin that’s suddenly independent of the meat—not much good for holding in a stuffing. But if things do get disconnected, don’t despair. Just position the skin on the stuffing as best you can and carry on. There may be a little shifting during cooking, so just be careful when you turn the chicken.

To make the space for the stuffing, start by smoothing the skin over the surface of the breast. Pick a spot along the perimeter of the skin, slide in your index finger, and move it back and forth like a windshield wiper, so that you don’t make the hole at the perimeter bigger but you-clear a space inside. When you’ve reached as far as you can from that position, find another spot and repeat the process, remembering that you want to keep the skin attached around the perimeter as much as possible.

创建一个空间,而不是襟翼。尝试将皮肤的边缘固定在肉上。

The skin crisps and protects; the bones just get in the way

开始填料fingerful推我t into one of the spaces; continue to work it deeper into the space by coaxing it into place from the outside. Once the full portion of stuffing is under the skin, just pat, poke, and smooth the skin until the stuffing is in a fairly even layer and the skin is spread taut.

我发现如果我冻​​结了毛绒乳房,它最有效在我开始烹饪之前五到十分钟,以使馅料加油,这样它就不会立即从煎锅中的鸡肉中融化。

从外部填充馅料。柔和的刺激将有助于分发层。

烤烤棕色的表面,但保持肉嫩

对于这种烤烘焙方法,我认为它比直炉炒的效果给出了浓度的结果,您将需要一个具有烤箱式手柄的重型煎锅,并舒适地容纳了要烹饪的乳房的数量。当您尝试翻转鸡肉时,太紧会使您诅咒。当我做两个或三个乳房时,我的九英寸铸铁煎锅效果出色。对于较大的批次,请使用两个煎锅 - 只需确保您可以同时将它们放入烤箱中。

与所有炒作一样,得到煎锅really hot,加入油和黄油(我用一点黄油在皮肤上获得最佳的颜色),然后加入鸡肉,皮肤一面。不要将鸡肉一毫米至少一分钟移动,否则您可能会撕裂皮肤。在此最初的卸下时期,地壳形式使其安全易于重新放置鸡肉并最终将其翻转。我在第一侧煮四分钟以获得金色的表面,然后将它们翻转,然后在热烤箱中煮熟 - 450°F。他们在大约十分钟内做饭,然后从另外三到五分钟的休息中受益,因此鸡肉中的蛋白质纤维放松,果汁重新分配,整个东西都会发展出更好的风味和质地。

This little rest, best taken under a tent of aluminum foil, gives me the time to deglaze the pan with a little white wine or lemon juice and chicken stock—canned is fine—which makes a few savory spoonfuls of sauce (see below).

直到看到黄金地壳,才不翻转。让鸡肉炒不受干扰,以免撕裂皮肤。

三分钟的酱汁可捕获锅中的口味

If you want to make a little unthickened pan sauce from the drippings, transfer the chicken to a warm spot and pour off any grease from the pan. Put the pan back on the stove over high heat and add 1/2 cup white wine and 1/4 cup homemade or low-salt canned chicken stock. Boil until the liquid has reduced to about 2 tablespoons, scraping with a wooden spoon to dissolve all the browned bits. Pour this sauce around the chicken (not on top of the crispy skin) and serve immediately.

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